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1. Readjust the cables down by the actuator (watch the installation video again).
2. Loosen the cable adjuster so it has a little play when in 4WD.
3. Rotate the knob to the 4WD position and pull it out. Sometimes a little piece of metal can stop the cable clasp from locking into the hole.

Make sure the 2-pin connector is plugged in. If it isn't, the 4WD light will come on and stay on.

A microswitch may also be stuck inside the tank lever.

1. Press our microswitch by hand and see if the display changes.
2. If it does, bend the switch out a little so it makes better contact with the cable clasp.
3. If it doesn't change, unplug our 2-pin connector. The stock setup should display 4WD.

If it still says 2WD with our connector unplugged, there's a short somewhere between the OEM wires and the 4WD control box.

• Did you remove the KEBC actuator?
• Is the belt switch bypass plugged in?
• Double-check all connections.
• Do the belt light reset procedure with our kit installed. This step is required.

If none of that fixes it, it could be a bad 4WD control box, a broken wire between the 4WD switch and the 4WD control box, or a broken wire between the 4WD control box and the main ECU. It's usually the green wire that's broken.

Brute Force:

1. Unplug the gray and black connectors and switch them.
2. Turn the key on. The belt light should flash fast.
3. Unplug the belt switch. The light should start flashing slow.
4. Leave it for 10-15 seconds.
5. Turn the key off.
6. Plug the belt switch bypass back in.
7. Put the black and gray connectors back together.
8. Turn the key on.

Prairie (slightly different):

1. Unplug the gray and black connectors and switch them.
2. Turn the key on. The belt light should blink fast.
3. Unplug the belt switch connector. It should start blinking slow.
4. Turn the key off.
5. Turn it back on and leave it on for 7+ seconds to clear the memory.
6. Turn it off and connect everything back.

Limp mode only lets the engine rev to a certain RPM, so you can usually only go about 5 MPH.

If the engine sputters or bogs when you hit the throttle in gear, shift to neutral and try again:

• Revs up normally in neutral: you're not in limp mode. It's a carb issue.
• Still bogs in neutral: you're most likely in limp mode.

If it only bogs at high RPM, it's most likely the carb. Check for a cracked carb boot, try tuning the carb or replace the jets. You can also try swapping the main ECU.

No. The speedometer has 2 parts: the speed sensor and a part inside the 4WD control box. A bad speedometer can cause 4WD problems, and our manual kit will fix your 4WD, but it won't fix a broken speedometer.

First, make sure the o-rings are in place and in good shape.

A lot of mud or water in the actuator is usually coming from the diff. Check:

• Your vent tube is in good working condition.
• Your axle seals. Bad axle seals let water and mud into the differential.

1. Unplug the 4WD actuator, ride around and see if it still happens.
2. If it does, plug the 4WD actuator back in and remove the 4WD control box (your speedometer will stop working for now). Ride again.
3. If it still happens, the problem is your 4WD control box.

You may need our actuator spacer. The shaft on the actuator can hit the differential when shifting from 2WD to 4WD, and the spacer gives just enough clearance for a smooth shift.

Try loosening the three bolts on the actuator by one full turn and see if that changes anything.

Loosen the actuator from the differential (about two full turns on the bolts) and try shifting. If it locks in, you need our actuator spacer.

The LED is powered by the orange wire coming off the tank lever. It plugs in where you unplugged the stock actuator.

1. Double-check that connection.
2. Check the microswitches inside the tank lever. Sometimes the metal on the switch needs a slight bend so the cable clasp can press it.
3. Test the connector to see if power is reaching the orange wire.

• You have to be moving 2-3 MPH for the electronic actuator to shift.
• You can bench test the motor, but it's usually the sensor inside the actuator that goes bad.

If power isn't getting to the electronic actuator with our KEBC delete kit installed, the 4WD control box could be bad (very rare). More likely, you need our full manual conversion kit for everything to work.

Do the belt light reset procedure after our kit is installed. The steps are in the Brute Force / Prairie questions above.

• Do the belt light reset procedure.
• Make sure your battery is fully charged.
• Make sure the belt switch bypass is plugged in.
• Completely remove the KEBC actuator.
• Your 4WD actuator may be bad.
• Trace the wires from the belt switch and look for broken wires in the harness.
• Inspect the main ECU. It's on top of the storage box, behind the tail light. Look for broken wires or burn marks on the unit.

Check for a plastic piece inside the 4WD control box. Remove it, then plug our kit in.

This is most likely a cable adjustment issue. Watch the adjustment tips video, and make sure every connection is tight and wired correctly.

If it keeps happening, the sensors inside the differential may be bad. Test them with a multimeter:

• 2WD: the bottom sensor should be shorted to ground.
• 4WD: the middle sensor should be shorted to ground.
• Diff Lock: the top sensor should be shorted to ground.

First check the cable adjustment and wiring. Try turning the machine off and back on.

If the light still won't come on:

1. Move the wheels a bit by riding a few feet, then try again.
2. Plug the OEM #3 wire back into the top position on the diff.
3. Shift into Diff Lock and see if the stock Diff Lock light shows on the dash.

If the stock light doesn't show either, the diff lock sensor may be bad. If the stock light does show, our light may be bad (very rare). Contact us.

The actuator lets a little diff oil in to stay lubricated, but it shouldn't leak a lot. Check these:

• Your vent tube is clean and clear. A clogged vent tube builds pressure and forces oil out.
• Your diff fluid isn't overfilled.
• The small o-ring from your kit isn't damaged or missing. That can cause a leak where the cable enters the actuator.
• If you have bellows, make sure they aren't too small, which can build pressure.

If everything looks right, put RTV sealant around the housing where the cable goes in.

Look behind the actuator for the pin and make sure it sits flush.

This can be caused by the speed limit bypass. Check its connections and make sure it's installed correctly.

Run power to the accessory, then cut one of its wires and tie it into our connector.

Example, light bar: run a positive and negative wire to the light bar (it will now be on all the time). Cut the negative wire and connect the two ends to our connector. Now the light bar turns on when you push the 4WD button.

Double-check the cable adjustment, and try turning the wheels while you shift.

Make sure you have the display lights upgrade kit.

See our guide, "How to get into diff lock with your Sure 4 Manual kit."

We make a bracket that replaces the washer and covers where the cable goes in. Text or email us and we'll get you set up.

Unplug the white wire/blade and test again.

The white wire powers that light. Check that connection and make sure nothing is loose or frayed.

Some machines (especially ones with lid snap-on kits) have their connectors in a different spot than the install video shows.

• Look for 1 wire coming off the differential. That's where our kit plugs in.
• If nothing comes off the diff, there will be 2 wires coming off the front hubs. Follow them and you'll find where our connector plugs in.

• Is your stock switch still plugged in and set to 2WD?
• Is the fuse in our wire harness good?
• Check all wires and connections. Something may have been bumped loose during install.
• Is the resistor plugged in?
• Unplug our kit and see if the light goes off.
• Disconnect every connector, including the battery, and reconnect them.

The best test: plug the diff back into the stock connector. If the check engine light goes away, contact us and we'll look at the kit.

Yes. Keep your stock Turf Mode switch. You'll only use it to turn Turf Mode on and off.

You must remove the 4WD wire from the back of your Turf Mode switch. Our kit plugs a jumper chip into your wire harness that tells the computer your front diff is still connected, which keeps the check engine light off. Engaging AWD with the stock switch will burn out that chip.

Then mount your new Knight Sure 4 switch on the dash and use it for true 4WD.

The stock AWD system keeps engaging and disengaging, which wears out the front differential and will break it at some point. Our kit locks you in 4WD and keeps you locked in.

A big bonus: you stay in 4WD when you shift into reverse. With stock AWD, 4WD drops out in reverse and you have to hold the override button.

The only downside: steering can be a little harder when locked in 4WD, but you'll only notice it on pavement where the wheels can't slip.

Usually the cable adjustment is a little off. The spring inside the actuator has to push the pin in the differential back into 2WD, so extra tension makes it hard to shift.

• The cable clasp inside the actuator only needs to move about 0.5" to fully engage 4WD. If it moves more than that, readjust the cable.
• To fully lock into 4WD, pull out slightly on the knob. Notches built into the Tank Lever housing hold it in place.

Still having trouble? Text or email us. We want to make sure your kit works right.

A few models need a different microswitch. This isn't common. Contact us and we'll send you the correct switch.

1. Unplug the gray and black connectors and switch them.
2. Turn the key on. The belt light should blink fast.
3. Unplug the belt switch connector.
4. Turn the key off.
5. Turn it back on and leave it on for 7+ seconds to clear the memory.
6. Turn it off and connect everything back.

1. Is the red light on the amp on? If not, check the fuse.
2. Is the red light on? Then check that Bluetooth connects. If it won't, try pairing a different phone or device.
3. Test the sound. If sound only comes from one speaker, it's most likely the wire harness. Try swapping the wires. If it still only plays from one side, we'll send you a replacement.

Send a photo or video of what's happening to sales@knightatv.com or text 732-737-7761 so we can find the cause.

Make sure the red light on the amp is on (if not, check the fuse), then try pairing with a different phone or device.

We don't ship speaker kits to PO Boxes with standard shipping, so please use a physical street address at checkout.

If you need it sent to a PO Box, contact us before you order. We can ship through USPS for an extra shipping fee, paid by the customer.

Custom color speaker housings can be refunded at 50% only.

To switch to a different model, you'll need to buy new housings. Go to Speaker Systems on our site and pick Speaker Housings Only.

This is usually caused by a bad relay. Text or email us and we'll get you a new one.