Your Honda Rubicon flashes 4WD on the dash, or it won't leave 2WD when you need it most. Usually the factory electronic 4WD actuator has failed, and a new electronic actuator can fail the same way.
The Honda Rubicon manual 4WD conversion fixes that with our Sure 4 side shifter kit. A lever beside your gas tank works a sealed mechanical actuator on the front differential, so 2WD, 4WD and diff lock no longer depend on a motor or sensor. This version keeps your factory D/L (drive/low) shifter working, on any Rubicon or Foreman that has one.
Shop the Honda Sure 4 Side Shifter ($399.99)
Why riders choose the Sure 4
- Completely plug and play. No cutting, no drilling and no wire splicing, per our product page.
- The 2.0 actuator has stronger springs, adjustable spring positioning, new seals, clamps and a rubber bellows.
- Limited lifetime guarantee. Free US shipping on orders over $100, and Shop Pay lets you split it into 4 payments.
- Full install video below, plus support by phone or text at 732-737-7761.

Does This Kit Fit Your Honda?
- Fitment: all Honda Foreman 2014 and up, and all Rubicon 2015 and up. The kit replaces OEM actuator 41700-HR4-A21.
- Rubicon or Foreman, either can have it. The D/L (drive/low) shifter is an option on both the Rubicon and the Foreman, so go by what's on your machine, not the model name.
- How to tell which shifter you have: look beside your gas tank. If there's a small extra shifter with L and D positions, like the first photo below, you have the D/L shifter. If that spot is empty, like the second photo, you don't.
- Which version you need: you have the D/L shifter, so choose the with D/L shifter version and follow this guide. No D/L shifter? Use our Honda Foreman manual 4WD conversion guide without low gear instead, whether you ride a Foreman or a Rubicon.


Display lights: with this kit, the dash 4WD and diff lock lights won't work. Want them working? Choose the Honda Sure 4 Ultimate Kit ($459.99), or add the Display Lights Upgrade Kit ($69.99).
What's in the Box
- Manual Sure 4 actuator with O-rings
- Pull cable
- M6 mounting screws
- Frame brackets (thin bracket, large U bracket, lever bracket, shift guide brackets)
- Long lever and shift knob
- Plastic shift guide
- Switches housing and lid with O-rings
- 10 pin and 8 pin wire harness connectors
- Mounting hardware (screws, washers, nuts, push fastener, rubber strip)

Tools You'll Need
- Screwdriver set
- Basic hand tools for removing plastics and push fasteners
- Dielectric grease (recommended for connectors)
Time and Difficulty
- Difficulty: moderate. Most of the work is removing plastics and setting the cable adjustment.
- Before you start: have a way to lift the front wheels off the ground. You'll need it to line up the gears in Steps 22 and 24.
Step-by-Step Honda Rubicon Sure 4 Side Shifter Install (With Low Gear)
These steps match the current 2.0 side shifter kit, including the switches housing and the 10 pin and 8 pin connectors.
- Remove your plastics. Take off the seat, center plastics, left footwell, and front left fender to access the differential and frame.
- Remove the factory actuator. Unplug and remove the electronic actuator from the differential.
- Prep the pull cable. Screw the pull cable into the manual actuator and seat the ball end of the cable into the pulley.
- Set the differential shaft position. Rotate the shaft in the differential clockwise as far as it will go without forcing it, then rotate it counterclockwise slightly so it sits vertical, matching the manual actuator.
- Mount the manual actuator. Place the O-ring on the actuator and mount it to the differential using the new M6 screws provided in the O-ring bag.
- Route the cable. Run the other end of the pull cable over the frame, just in front of the gas tank.
- Install the thin frame bracket. Use one 1/4 20 screw to hold the back side together. Unscrew one of the nuts on the cable, push the cable through the slot in the metal bracket, then use the two nuts on the cable to tighten the bracket to the frame. Do not overtighten. Screw in the 1 inch, 10/32 screw so it pins against the frame to keep the bracket from rotating, again without overtightening.
- Remove the factory low gear shifter parts. Pull the rubber knob off the low gear shifter. Remove the two screws holding the plastic low gear shift guide to the bracket and discard that plastic guide and its screws. Remove the low gear bracket and set aside the two screws, since you'll reuse them.
- Install the large U bracket. Fit it around the frame. If it sits loose, apply the supplied rubber strip to it first.
- Attach the long lever. Screw the long lever onto the lever bracket before mounting the bracket itself.
- Position the lever. Slide the lever between the low gear bracket and the gas tank.
- Secure the lever bracket. Use the plastic push fastener to align the lever bracket with the frame and hold it in place, then screw in the four 1/4 20 screws, tightening them evenly.
- Attach the cable to the shift lever. Put a washer on the 10-32, 1 inch screw, slide it through the holes on the cable end bracket, add another washer and a nut with the flange facing the end of the screw, then slide the bolt through the shift lever bracket and add the final nut. Tighten until the screw sits flush with the last nut.
- Reinstall the low gear shifter. Put it back onto the frame, reusing the screws you saved in step 8.
- Attach the shift guide brackets. Fasten them to the low gear shifter using the new supplied screws, but don't fully tighten them yet.
- Install the plastic shift guide. Use the 3 button head screws, tightening evenly so the brackets sit flat against the shift guide, then go back and fully tighten the bracket screws.
- Adjust the low gear cable, first pass. Shift into L if you're able to, then adjust the nuts on the shaft at the base of the cable bracket, lowering them as close to the cable as possible.
- Access the cable's other end. At the opposite end of this cable is a metal cover. Remove the two screws holding it on and take the cover off.
- Fine tune the low gear cable. Adjust the two nuts on this end of the cable so the low gear shifter moves cleanly between L and D.
- Reinstall the cover. Put it back over the pull cable.
- Install the shift knob. Push down on top of the shifter and screw the knob to the lever using the supplied screw.
- Shift into 4wd. Squeeze the lever so the bottom lifts, then push the lever into the 4wd position without forcing it. If it won't move all the way, lift the front wheels off the ground and rotate a wheel while pushing the lever. This lines up the gears inside the differential so they can slide together. Never force the lever.
- Adjust the actuator. With the lever in the 4wd position, unscrew the adjuster on the actuator until the notch marks line up. Only make this adjustment while in the 4wd position.
- Shift into diff lock. Same technique as step 22: if it won't move fully, raise the front wheels and rotate a wheel while pushing the lever. Never force it.
- Finish the cable adjustment. Tighten the lock nut against the adjuster on the cable. If you did not purchase the Display Lights Upgrade Kit, place the O-ring on the lid, screw it on, plug the 10 pin connector into your wire harness, and skip ahead to step 31.
- Shift back to 2wd. Rock the wheel back and forth so the gears inside the differential slide apart and the actuator rotates back to the 2wd position.
- Prep the switches housing. Put the O-ring on the switches housing, rotate the flat blade clockwise until it stops, then rotate it back counterclockwise slightly so it lines up with the slot in the actuator.
- Attach the switches housing. Push the switches housing onto the actuator so the flat blade slides into the actuator's slot.
- Close up the housing. Put the O-ring on the lid and screw the lid and switches housing onto the actuator using the long 1/4 20 screws provided.
- Connect the wiring. Plug the 10 pin connector into the wire harness where the electric actuator used to connect.
- Lower the ATV. Bring the ATV back down onto the ground.
- Locate your 4wd button wiring. Follow the wires from your electric 4wd button down to below your front plastics.
- Swap the 4wd switch connector. Unplug your factory 4wd switch from the main wire harness and plug in the supplied connector. This connector can also power aftermarket accessories like a light bar or rock lights through your 4wd button and diff lock switch.
- Connect the 8 pin connector. Plug it into your wire harness. If you purchased the Display Lights Upgrade Kit, this connector will have a yellow wire connecting two terminals; otherwise all the holes stay plugged.
- Secure the wiring. Tuck and secure all wires, then reinstall the front plastics.
- Remove the shift knob and shifter guide. These come off temporarily to finish reassembly.
- Reinstall your plastics. Put the front left fender, left footwell, center plastics, and seat back in place.
- Reinstall the shift guide. Attach it back into the T handle using the two button head screws.
- Reinstall the shift knob. Install it the same way it came off.

Your installation is complete. Enjoy your Sure 4 manual 4WD kit and never worry about electronic 4WD issues again.
Watch the Install Video
Connector and Adjustment Notes
- Only adjust the actuator with the lever in the 4WD position (Step 23).
- 10 pin connector: plugs in where the electric actuator used to connect.
- 8 pin connector: has a yellow wire bridging two terminals only if you bought the Display Lights Upgrade Kit.
- Dielectric grease on each connector helps keep water out.
- How to ride it: never force the shifter. Shift at 5 MPH or less while turning the handlebars.
Troubleshooting
- The shifter won't go fully into 4WD or diff lock. Never force the lever. Lift the front wheels and rotate a wheel while gently pushing the lever, so the internal gears can line up.
- Getting into diff lock is hard. Watch Honda Sure 4: why it's hard to get into diff lock and how to fix it and the spring adjustment video.
- The low gear shifter binds between L and D. Revisit the nut adjustments at both ends of the low gear cable (Steps 17-19).
- The notch marks drift out of line. Re-adjust with the lever in 4WD only.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the shifter won't move all the way into 4WD or diff lock? Never force the lever. Lift the front wheels off the ground and rotate a wheel while gently pushing the lever. This lines up the internal gears so they can slide together.
How do I know if my low gear cable is adjusted correctly? It should shift cleanly between L and D without resistance or binding. If it doesn't, revisit the nut adjustments at both ends of the low gear cable before moving on.
Can I still use my factory 4WD button and diff lock switch? Yes. The supplied connector lets your factory switches control aftermarket accessories like light bars or rock lights, in addition to the manual actuator function.
What is the Display Lights Upgrade Kit connector for? If you purchased that upgrade, the 8 pin connector will have a yellow wire connecting two terminals. If you did not purchase it, all the holes on that connector remain plugged.
Do I have to cut or drill anything? No. Our product page lists the Honda Sure 4 as completely plug and play: no cutting, no drilling and no splicing wires.
What if I run into an issue I can't resolve? Call or text Knight ATV support at 732-737-7761, or email sales@knightatv.com.
Ready to Fix Your Rubicon's 4WD for Good?
Get the Sure 4 side shifter for your Honda Rubicon and choose the with D/L shifter version.
Get the Honda Sure 4 Side Shifter
Want working dash lights too? See the Honda Sure 4 Ultimate Kit, or browse all Honda Sure 4 kits.