How to Install the KEBC Delete + Hole Cover on a Kawasaki Brute Force or Prairie (Fix Limp Mode)
This guide covers the Knight ATV Brute Force - Prairie KEBC Delete + Hole Cover Combo. Questions? Call or text us at 732-737-7761 or email sales@knightatv.com.
Is your Brute Force or Prairie stuck in limp mode with the BELT or CVT light flashing? (It says BELT on 2011 and older models and CVT on 2012 and newer.) On these quads, the Kawasaki Engine Brake Control (KEBC) actuator and the belt switch are both common failure points that put you in limp mode. Our KEBC Delete + Hole Cover Combo takes them out of the picture. Your engine will perform normally and you won't go back into limp mode.
Everything is plug and play. There's no cutting, no drilling and no splicing wires. You plug our harness in between your 4WD control box and the factory connector, plug in the belt switch bypass, and cover the KEBC hole with our aluminum hole cover so water and mud stay out.
This kit is also a must-have if you're running one of our Sure 4 manual conversion kits. Without it, your display lights won't work properly.
Fits (as listed on the product page): All Brute Force, all KVF, all Prairie. Replaces OEM part numbers 16172-0017 and 16172-0019.
Have a 2002-2006 Prairie 360? Kawasaki used a 4WD light with a built-in memory chip on those years, so you'll want the Prairie 360 Belt Light Bypass with KEBC Wire Harness and Hole Cover Kit instead. It fits 2002-2006 Prairie 360s and any model with 5-pin gray and black connectors under the gas tank.
What's in the Box
- KEBC Delete Wire Harness (with relay)
- 6 Pin Connector Plug
- Aluminum Hole Cover Kit: aluminum hole cover, a new O-ring, two countersunk screws and one button head screw
- Belt Switch Bypass (now included free)
- Zip ties
The Brute Force and the Prairie use all of the same hardware, so the steps below are identical for both.
Tools You'll Need
- Screwdrivers for the plastics and screws
- 8 mm socket or wrench (for the three KEBC actuator screws)
- 4 mm hex key (for the button head screw on the hole cover kit)
- 2012 and newer only: a long screwdriver to pry out the headlight wire clip
- A rag to clean the KEBC mounting area
Zip ties are included in the kit.
Time and Difficulty
- Difficulty: Beginner-friendly. If you can pull a seat and turn a few screws, you can do this. Customers who don't work on ATVs every day tell us the video made it easy to follow.
- Time: Less than an hour. On 2011 and older models only the seat comes off, so it goes quickly. On 2012 and newer models most of the time goes into removing and reinstalling the front plastics. The parts themselves only take a few minutes.
Before You Start: Find Your 4WD Control Box
Where the 4WD control box sits depends on your year, and that decides how much comes apart:
- 2011 and older: the control box is under the seat. The seat is the only thing you remove. No plastics come off.
- 2012 and newer: the control box is on the front end, under the front fender plastics. You'll remove the seat, the front rack and the front plastics to reach it. This is the layout our install video shows.
Step-by-Step Installation
Part 1: Remove the Seat (All Models)
1. Remove the seat. Pull the seat latch lever and set the seat aside.
2011 and older: that's it. Nothing else comes off. Skip ahead to Part 2 (Step 10).
2012 and newer: keep going with Part 1A.
Part 1A: Remove the Front Plastics (2012 and Newer Only)
2. Remove the front rack. Take out the four screws holding the front rack and lift it off. Then remove the uprights under the rack. Note that the taller uprights go to the front and the shorter ones to the back, with the longer screws in front.
3. Remove the center panel by the gauges. Take out the front screw and the two screws on either side of the gauges. Unplug your 12-volt outlet as you lift the panel off.
4. Remove the side panels. Remove all the screws holding each side panel. On the key side, remove the nut on your key switch. On the other side, open the storage compartment and remove the screws inside it.
5. Unscrew the footwells and side fenders. Remove the screws holding each footwell to the front fender and the screws holding the side fender to the front fender, including the two at the back. Do the same on both sides.
6. Remove the shift knob and side fenders. Unscrew the shift knob. The side fender tucks under the side of the airbox, but you don't need to remove the airbox. Pop each side fender off.
7. Remove the inner mud guards (if equipped). Some quads have an inner mud guard on each side. The two fender screws you already removed held it at one point. Pull the push fasteners (two on top, one at the bottom) and take it off. Repeat on the other side.
8. Disconnect the headlights. On each side, remove the screw that holds the headlight, follow the headlight wire and unplug its connector, and then pry out the wire clip between the headlight and the front bumper (a long screwdriver works well). Also unplug anything else wired into the front fender, such as a horn.
9. Remove the front fender. With everything disconnected, lift the front fender off. Now you can reach the 4WD control box.
Part 2: Install the KEBC Delete Wire Harness
10. Unplug the factory connector from the 4WD control box. If there's a rubber boot over the control box, peel it back (it's held by tabs, no clips). Push down on the connector latch and hold the whole connector body in your hand so you aren't pulling on the wires, then wiggle it out.
Check the yellow piece: The yellow insert should stay in the factory wire harness connector. If it came out and stayed in the control box, pull it out and push it back into the harness side.
Still from our install video.
11. Remove the shipping sticker. Our harness has a sticker on it to hold the metal tabs in place during shipping. Peel it off so all three slots are open. The harness won't plug in correctly with the sticker on.
12. Plug our harness into the 4WD control box. It's a very tight fit. Wiggle it back and forth until it goes all the way in and you hear it click.
Still from our install video.
13. Plug the factory connector into our harness. Push it in until it clicks. Make a little room as you push everything back. Then set the control box back on its tabs.
14. Secure the relay. Tuck the relay out of the way and hold it tight with one of the included zip ties.
Part 3: Remove the KEBC Actuator and Install the Hole Cover
We recommend removing the KEBC actuator. If you're still in limp mode after the install, "Did you remove the KEBC actuator?" is the first thing we'll ask.
15. Remove the KEBC actuator. Use an 8 mm socket to remove the three screws holding the KEBC actuator. Cut the zip tie holding the actuator wire (only the plastic zip tie, never the wire). Then pull the actuator off.
16. Unplug the actuator. Lift the tab on the actuator connector and pull the two halves apart. The factory connector stays on the quad. You'll plug it with the 6 Pin Connector Plug in Step 21.
Still from our install video.
17. Clean the mounting area. Wipe the area clean before you install the hole cover. Leave the factory plate in place. It stays on when the actuator comes off.
About the fork inside the belt cover: If the fork inside the belt housing is fine, leave it in. In our video only the actuator had failed, so the fork stayed. If you hear noise coming from inside the belt housing, take the belt housing off and remove the fork from the inside.
Still from our install video.
18. Install the hole cover. Use the new O-ring from the kit. Don't reuse the factory O-ring. Place the new O-ring and the aluminum hole cover over the opening and secure the cover with the two countersunk screws. Then install the button head screw in the third actuator screw hole, the one the cover doesn't use, with a 4 mm hex key.
Snug the screws, and don't overtighten them. If you're using a torque wrench, the spec is 78 in-lb (8.8 N·m).
Still from our install video.
Part 4: Install the Belt Switch Bypass and the 6 Pin Connector Plug
19. Unplug the belt switch. Find your belt switch, follow its wire to the connector, and unplug it.
Still from our install video.
20. Plug in the belt switch bypass. Unplug the two pieces of the bypass from each other, then plug each piece into one side of the factory connector you just separated.
21. Plug in the 6 Pin Connector Plug. Push the 6 Pin Connector Plug into the factory KEBC actuator connector, the one you unplugged from the actuator in Step 16. It seals the open connector so dirt and water stay out.
Still from our install video.
22. Tie up the wiring. Use the included zip ties to secure the connectors out of the way. Keep them away from anything hot or moving.
Part 5: Reassemble and Test
23. Put everything back together.
2011 and older: put the seat back on and move on to Step 24.
2012 and newer: reinstall the plastics. Reassembly is the reverse of removal (Steps 2-9). A few tips from our video: - Spread the front fender slightly and slip it behind the footwells on both sides. Use the rack holes to check that everything lines up. - Pass your key switch through its panel before adding more plastics, because it gets harder to reach later. - Each side fender goes over the shifter and under the airbox. - Hold off on the two screws between the side and front fenders until the inner mud guards are back in. Those screws hold the mud guards too, along with the push fasteners (two on top, one at the bottom). - Reconnect the headlights: plug each connector back in, refit the wire clip, and install the headlight screw. Reconnect the horn if you have one. - Reconnect the 12V outlet before you screw down the center panel. - Screw the shift knob back on. Install the front rack with the taller uprights and longer screws in front.
24. Start it up and test. Start the quad and check that the BELT light (2011 and older) or CVT light (2012 and newer) is off and you're out of limp mode. If the light is still on, do the Belt Light Reset Procedure below.
Belt Light Reset Procedure (If the Light Stays On)
Many customers need to do this once after the install. On 2011 and older models the light says BELT. On 2012 and newer models it says CVT. The reset is the same either way.
You'll need the factory belt light reset connector (the gray plug) that's stored under your seat. If yours is missing, our Belt Light Reset Connector is a direct replacement (OEM part 46066-0001).
Before you start, make sure your battery is fully charged. A weak battery can make the belt light act up.
- With the key off, take the seat off. Under the seat, find the black connector and the gray belt light reset connector. Unplug both, then cross them: plug each side of the black connector into a side of the gray reset connector (black into gray, gray into black).
- Turn the key on. The light should start flashing fast. Let it flash for at least 5 seconds.
- Unplug the belt switch (with our kit, that means the belt switch bypass). The light should start flashing slowly. Leave it for 5-15 seconds.
- Turn the key off.
- Plug the belt switch bypass back in.
- Put the connectors under the seat back the way they were: black to black, gray to gray. Keep the gray reset connector under the seat (or in its bag) for next time.
- Turn the key on and start the quad. The light should be off and you're out of limp mode.
If it doesn't clear, go through the steps again in order. Still stuck? Text us at 732-737-7761.
Torque Specs and Connector Notes
- Torque specs: Snug is fine for the hole cover screws and the button head screw. Don't overtighten. If you're using a torque wrench, the spec is 78 in-lb (8.8 N·m).
- Fasteners: The KEBC actuator comes off with an 8 mm socket (three screws). The hole cover uses the two countersunk screws, and the button head screw takes a 4 mm hex key. Always use the new O-ring from the kit.
- 4WD control box connector: Hold the connector body, not the wires, when you unplug it. Check that the yellow insert stays in the factory harness side. Peel the shipping sticker off our harness before plugging it in. Both connections should click.
- Belt switch bypass: Plugs into both sides of the factory belt switch connector. No cutting or splicing.
- 6 Pin Connector Plug: Plugs into the factory KEBC actuator connector to keep dirt and water out.
- Routing: Use the included zip ties to keep everything clear of hot and moving parts.
- Everything in this kit is plug and play. You never need to cut, splice or drill.
Install Video
This is our newest install video for this kit, filmed on a 2012-or-newer Brute Force with the control box on the front end. On 2011 and older models, skip the plastics section (0:51-5:46) and just pull the seat.
Video chapters: 0:00 Kit overview · 0:51 ATV disassembly · 5:46 Wiring harness install · 7:51 Removing the actuator · 9:42 Installing delete components · 11:22 Reassembly · 19:16 Testing
Belt light still on? Watch the Belt Light Reset Procedure:
Troubleshooting
The BELT/CVT light is still on, or I'm still in limp mode after the install. - Did you remove the KEBC actuator? We recommend taking it off completely. - Is the belt switch bypass plugged in? - Do the Belt Light Reset Procedure above. With our kit installed, you must do the reset. Do each step in order. - Make sure your battery is fully charged. - Trace the wires from the belt switch for any broken wires in the harness. - Check the main ECU, which sits on top of the storage box behind the taillight. Look for broken wires or burn marks on the unit. - Double-check every connection. Make sure the harness clicked into the control box and the factory connector clicked into the harness. - If it still won't clear, the cause could be a bad 4WD control box, a broken wire between the 4WD switch and the 4WD control box, or a broken wire between the 4WD control box and the main ECU. A bad 4x4 actuator can also cause it. Call or text us and we'll help you track it down.
The quad won't start after the install. Make sure it's in neutral. We've seen a quad that wouldn't start only because it was still in gear. Once it was shifted to neutral and the belt light reset was done, it ran great.
Our harness won't go all the way into the 4WD control box. - Check for a plastic piece left inside the 4WD control box (usually the yellow insert from the factory connector). Remove it and put it back in the factory harness side, then plug in our kit (Step 10). - Make sure you peeled the shipping sticker off our harness (Step 11). - It's a tight fit. Wiggle it straight in until it clicks. - If a terminal looks missing or bent in either connector, stop and text us a photo at 732-737-7761 before forcing anything.
It's tight fitting the harness under the seat. On 2011 and older models you may have to make a little room for the harness. Move the surrounding wiring gently, and don't pull on wires.
Limp mode and the belt light come back after resetting. Check that the KEBC actuator is removed (or at least unplugged), that the belt switch bypass is plugged in, and look for broken wires between the 4WD control box and the main computer.
It goes back into limp mode after 20+ minutes of riding. Unplug the 4WD actuator and ride to see if it still happens. If it does, plug the 4WD actuator back in, remove the 4WD control box (your speedometer will stop working temporarily), and ride again. If it still happens, it's your 4WD control box.
My 2WD/4WD lights change, but my electronic 4WD actuator doesn't shift. You must be moving 2-3 mph for the electronic actuator to shift. If it still won't shift with our KEBC delete installed, the 4WD control box may not be sending power to the actuator. That's very rare. More likely, the actuator itself is the problem (the sensor inside it is what usually goes bad), and our Sure 4 manual conversion kit is the permanent fix.
I hear noise from the belt housing. The fork inside the belt cover may need to come out. See the note in Step 17.
Still stuck? Send photos or video to sales@knightatv.com or text 732-737-7761.
FAQ
What does the KEBC delete do? It lets you remove your Kawasaki Engine Brake Control (KEBC) so a failed KEBC actuator can't put you in limp mode. Your engine performs normally. The included belt switch bypass also takes the belt switch, another common failure point, out of the picture.
Do I have to remove the KEBC actuator? We recommend it. Take it off and install the aluminum hole cover with the new O-ring so water and mud can't get in.
Will I lose engine braking? Yes, the Engine Brake Control won't work anymore. Owners tell us they don't miss it. On hills you can still get some engine braking by keeping the engine just off idle, and on really steep descents you can shift into low.
Does this fix a flashing 2WD/4WD light? Several customers have told us it also fixed their flashing 2WD/4WD light.
Do I need this with a Sure 4 manual actuator? Yes. If you run any of our Sure 4 manual conversion kits, you need the KEBC Delete Wire Harness for your display lights to work properly. The Brute Force - Prairie Sure 4 Combo bundles both.
Is the install different on a Brute Force vs. a Prairie? No. The Prairie uses all of the hardware in the kit, just like the Brute Force, and the steps are the same. The only thing that changes by year is where the 4WD control box sits: under the seat on 2011 and older models, and on the front end on 2012 and newer.
How long does it take? Less than an hour.
I have a 2002-2006 Prairie 360. Is this the right kit? You'll want the Prairie 360 Belt Light Bypass with KEBC Wire Harness and Hole Cover Kit. If you have a 2007 or newer model, you don't need the belt light bypass unless your vehicle has a 5-pin connector. Not sure? Text us.
Do I need to cut or splice any wires? Never. Everything is plug and play.
What's the difference between the KEBC Delete and the KEBC Delete + Hole Cover Combo? Both include the KEBC Delete Wire Harness, the 6 Pin Connector Plug and the Belt Switch Bypass. The Combo adds the Aluminum Hole Cover Kit, which seals the opening when you remove the KEBC actuator.
Is there a warranty? All products manufactured by Knight ATV have a lifetime warranty for the original purchaser.
Shop the kit: Brute Force - Prairie KEBC Delete + Hole Cover Combo Questions? Call or text 732-737-7761 or email sales@knightatv.com.